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Trip to China
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Sunday,
August 24, 2008
Greetings to family and friends from our first full day back in
Guangzhou! Today was a free day and we spent much of the day
touring some of the most historic and cultural sites around
Guangzhou and our photos document some of that. Unfortunately,
our camera battery ran out toward the end of the Six Banyan
Temple site so our photos from Sunday are somewhat limited. We
do have lots of video though. Luckily we do have rechargeable
batteries so tomorrow should be a better photo day.
Before I tell you about the rich cultural history of southern
China, I must give you an update on Miss Eva. She is doing
wonderfully. Happy baby, really, really happy. Now that does not
mean she is a totally compliant baby. She has very mixed
opinions about high chairs and really does not see why one would
go to crowded and noisy restaurants. After all she still prefers
all of her meals in a bottle in a quiet room. Plus what is the
point of sitting around eating Thai and Chinese food when one
can be well, moving!! As in, toddling along with parents hunched
over holding her in a walk (we did that around the hotel room 50
times last night, easily), also climbing is good, trying to
climb up and down the bed and up and over pillows, crawling is
fun and investigating everything. If Daniel and I had any
question before we came whether we would need to toddler-proof
the house, there really is no question. Every drawer has been
opened in the hotel room, she has found every crevice to stick
her fingers, legs and arms especially through the death trap
crib (with all of the lead based paint chewed off by previous
adoptees), she likes every surface so the carpet is fine but
practicing your standing and dancing on the marble floors is
also good, laptops are interesting and so are blackberries, cell
phones and cameras.
So while Eva is very much a baby, she is also in mind, body and
spirit also a toddler --inquisitive, full of laughs and giggles
and smiles, and opinionated. Also we think she is gifted. Truly,
I know parents are always thinking about their kids. But it is
not as though we are claiming any credit. We have been on the
scene less than a week. But to us she seems like the most
physically agile and intelligent baby girl. We are thinking
gymnastics, dance, ice skating ... the works, I also have a
theory that it is her love for physical movement and activity
that got her into a little bit of trouble the last couple months
in the orphanage, My guess is that she was being handed her
bottles in her crib but that after she finished them and tossed
them aside she was allowed to play outside of her crib, as we
received quite a few snapshots on our disposable camera from the
orphanage of her crawling on the wooden floor. Her interest in
movement outweighed her interest in food and so she may have
been tossing those bottles pretty quickly (before they were
empty) to get to play time. Hence why the orphanage nannies
conceded she had not been eating nearly as much as the schedule
said she had. So her weight fell off. I have other theories too
about the weight drop -- that babies that are not held will not
thrive, but I prefer not to go there because she is bouncing
back so quickly and she is clearly thriving now - thriving and
booming forward and acting like she is on the adventure of her
lifetime. My other theory relates to skin. All of the girls had
some skin issues, bites, etc. and hers was worse than everyone
elses as of July, much worse so much so that our agency
intervened to get her medical care weeks before we met her. The
causes of her troubles are very, very common issues in south
China and Vietnam but my theory is she had it worse because she
is so on the go and so inquisitive that she was on the ground a
lot, especially as more and more babies, probably of younger
ages, were coming into the orphanage. And she is not a
complainer so she could have gotten pretty itchy and not made
too big of a fuss over it. On the issue of asking for what she
needs, we have been thrilled to see that she is starting to
demand from us now especially food -- last week she seemed to
wait and hope we might feed her and now she smacks her lips,
gives little cries says bababa and looks toward where the
bottles are being made (which happens to be the hotel mini bar,
with a swizzle stick for mixing- in the rice cereal). Smart plus
a bit more trusting that food is plentiful, available on off
hours and on demand, and that she can ask for it and receive as
much as she wants and can even leave some behind in her bottle
and come back for those two ounces after checking out something
interesting like oatmeal packets or wrapping paper.
But more about China. Our CCAI guide Jocelyn took us first to
Six Banyan Temple which is a temple built around the year 500.
My impression is it is a very famous and certainly is a very
beautiful temple with a nine story pagoda right in the center of
a series of shrines, and it is very much an active temple today
with monks in residence and petitioners coming by to pray,
petition, make offerings and reflect. The Liurong Temple, for
those up on their ancient history, was founded in the Da Tong
3rd year of the Liang Dynasty during the Southern Dynasty (537
AD). The Emperor had ordered that a Temple of Solemnity be built
and that a pagoda be built under which bones of the Buddha be
buried. As the pictures show, we took Eva for her second of two
Buddhist blessing and she listened solemnly to the intonations
of the bell and then squirmed when she and Colette were anointed
with water. One would need to be there to appreciate the beauty
and the mix of business and tranquility. Next stop was the
Guangdong Folk Art Museum and when I say this was fascinating I
am understating it significantly. Originally built as the Chen
Clan Academy and named locally as the Chen Ancestral Hall
located outside the west gate of Guangzhou City and built during
the late 19th century, the Academy was originally a hall for the
Chen family to gather, educate their young and come together
from seventy-two counties of Guangdong to discuss family
affairs. In 1959 it was turned over to the Chinese government as
a Folk Art Museum and was saved from destruction during the
Cultural Revolution by not only hanging a large likeness of
Chairman Mao on the door but also turning the Academy into a
center for writing down Mao's famous quotations. Now it is
preserved by the government as an important historical and
cultural site. Without pictures we cannot do the architecture,
the brick and wood carvings, the courtyards, the ceramic
sculptures, displays of lime sculpture, ivory carvings, painting
and embroidery justice but suffice it to say that we can
understand why it is one of the most important, largest, best
preserved and gorgeously decorated traditional buildings in
Guangdong Province. We invite anyone with more interest to view
it on line at
www.cjc-museum.com. And let's
just say that Daniel and I are now converts to traditional
southern Chinese folk arts. Last stop of the morning was a
beautiful store for shopping where Eva got to know all about
credit cards as well as get a warmed up bottle from a woman
serving hot water for tea. And back to the hotel for play time,
bath time, bottle time ... tomorrow begins our official round of
visits to the US consulate, medical exams, etc. but all of that
pales to the growth and joy in our little girl.
And, to Louis and Nathaniel, we love and miss you and we are in
the home stretch now!!
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