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In China
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Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Gemma seems to be getting more comfortable with us. She's doing an extraordinary job of communicating without words and must be the world's best charades player since she always seems to get across what she needs. Thankfully, she also seems to be a fairly compliant kid. She's really good at entertaining herself during the lulls if we're not drawing with her or playing games. She can entertain herself for hours just by doing her doll's hair or clothes. Through the Jibbigo translator, she's told April that she would like to have long hair herself, just like her dolls.

She and Gavin are getting along great. They play games together and tease each other a lot. Sometimes they even push and shove, just like proper siblings. They always race each other to the room when we go back to see who can put the key in first. Whenever we leave the room, we play a little game at the elevator bank. Of the 6 elevators, everybody chooses one to see if their's will be the one we end up taking. We listen closely at the doors and adjust as needed to get the right one. Usually we don't end up picking the right one, but it makes us all laugh in any case. Once on the elevator Gemma always plugs her ears. We're not sure if it's related to a pressure change or what but we'll find out sometime. Unfortunately the translator only translates Mandarin and not Cantonese. It works one way really well because she can read the characters, but she cannot get her words to translate back to us.

The only official business today was to go to the Public Security Bureau (PSB) to apply for the kids' passports. We didn't have to leave until 2:45 so we had time to relax in the morning and maybe explore a bit. About mid-morning we met the Perrys at their room and headed out to explore the Chinese medicine market across the street from the island. To get there you walk to the north side of the island, cross the false river, and then cross Liu Er San Road by way of a pedestrian bridge. You come down on the other side right in the market.

The market is where the Chinese have found uses for pretty much every sort of organic matter on Earth. If it crawls, walks, swims, or photosynthesizes, it will be here - dried and sellable. It's a busy and bustling place, with the men constantly loading and unloading heavy sacks of materials, and the women doing the buying and selling. Every hundred feet or so the facade gives way to a small opening that opens into a long corridor of more storefronts that fades back into the ancient hutongs behind. While it's tempting to walk deep within and explore, it is not exactly inviting and seems like the kind of place where one could simply disappear forever. We opted to stick to the more beaten path.

We walked to the western end first and then back past the pedestrian bridge to the far eastern end. From here we carefully crossed Liu Er San Road on its surface and made our way back onto the island at its eastern end. They tell you to move with the locals whenever you walk around. They know the rhythms of the traffic and its important to follow that advice. On the island it's not that big of a deal, but once outside it's protection you have to be hyper-aware of what goes on around you.

We stopped in at Shamian Park (People's Park) on the way back to the hotel to let the girls play on the playground equipment for a while. They ran around screaming and giggling with delight for the better part of an hour, mostly just running up one slide and sliding down another. Gemma and Gavin played on the teeter totter for a while as well and Gavin had fun taking video footage of them goofing off.

By now it was getting to be time for lunch so we headed back up to the room. We had bought some instant noodle bowls for Gemma at Carrefour and she devours them for lunch. For the Chinese, lunch is usually their biggest meal, but for ourselves, we've just been sticking to a protein bar and a few nuts or something for our lunches.

We took turns drawing with Gemma and watching a little TV. She has been drawing Ava's name in flawless English and then writes the Chinese symbols for "mei mei". I think She's excited to meet her!

A little later as were were packing up to head out to the PSB, I heard some faint humming of a recognizable tune. It took me a few seconds but I recognized it as Jingle Bells. The crazy thing is that it was coming from Gemma! Apparently Holt has been preparing them with all kinds of Western practices and customs. April told me that Faith had been singing Old MacDonald the day previous so I sang a little verse to see if Gemma would follow. Sure enough, she chimed in with E-I-E-I-O and we all cracked up.

We met downstairs to head out to the PSB. Catherine Han was there to chat with the girls a little bit. Gemma took great delight in calling us out in front of everybody about the fact that she hadn't yet had a proper bath. We had given her a bath, but it was really just a lice bath. Apparently she hadn't had her luxurious 5-star hotel bath yet, and made sure to get the correct pronunciation of the english word "bath" from Catherine. There was no way she was not going to get a back tonight! Catherine is great with the girls and really teases them a lot. They respond in kind and tease her back.

The PSB experience was a little different this time. It was in a building that looked exactly the same but I think it was actually a different building. It was located in a much nicer part of town, over in the financial district. That part of town is clean and pristine just as if you were in any large American city. Inside it was different as well. Last time we went to a place that was laid out a lot like a DMV, with a waiting area full of chairs and a counter with the representatives. This time we were in a ground floor lobby and there were just a few representatives at a makeshift desk. We waited for about 30 minutes while other adoption families took their turns and then we walked up for ours. The whole process took about 2 minutes - they just needed to quickly photograph Gemma for the passport. The Civil Affairs official was there as well and we were able to see our adoption decrees and check them for accuracy. Joyce held onto them for later though.

Heading back to the hotel we made plans for the evening and for the following day. We were going to venture out to Shangxia Jiu Lu Shopping Street that night for some "American Food", which with any luck would be Pizza Hut. At the hotel we met back in the Holt office again because Abbie had come back from another province. Chris was also in the office so it was good to see him again. Between the two, they had done a very good job of preparing our girls to be adopted into an American family. It was nice to be able to say thanks personally. We also learned that of the two girls, it sounds like Gemma might be more of the pragmatist while Faith is a little more impetuous. Faith was asking Catherine about being able to go play and say goodbye to her orphanage friends. Catherine had told her that she would allow 2 hours for this, upon which Faith immediately began to negotiate up. "Two and a half?", she said. Gemma then told her "at least it's something!". We all got a good chuckle out of that.

We took the last shuttle from the White Swan. Along the way the girls sat in the back playing little games in Chinese and practicing English with each other. They were saying things like "Good Morning Mr. Sun" and counting numbers. I managed to get some of this on video and it's ultra-cute. We arrived at Shangxia Jiu Lu, which is pretty much the Times Square of Guangzhou. This is also where Guangzhou Liwan Plaza and the Jade Market are located. Liwan Plaza is a mall like no other - 7 stories high with 6 spokes off a central hub. You can buy precious gems in bulk here as well as all kinds of clothing and other things you'd find in a mall. Pizza Hut was actually located inside but for some reason they had the mall temporarily locked down. We settled instead for McDonalds across the way and just had some fish sandwiches and bottled water. Supposedly you can drink fountain drinks at the major chains but we didn't risk it.

We think the trip is starting to wear on Gavin a little bit. He's starting to get pretty homesick. Being in this sea of non-English speaking people and then inside kind of a dingy McDonalds seemed to have a negative effect on Gavin. He couldn't wait to get back to the hotel and he really wanted to Skype with everybody back home. If that wasn't bad enough, he was getting an earache. The poor kid has had ear tubes since he was very little and one of them came out the other day. It's gotten plugged while being here so everything sounds a little muffled to him. We're going to need to get him to the Western doctor soon and have it looked at, but he probably won't get good relief from it until we get home. In any event, the combination of all this made for a pretty rotten evening for Gav once we got back to the hotel and he ended up in bed with us.

We took a cab back from Shangxia Jiu Lu by flashing the "take me back to the White Swan" card. 5 minutes and 7 Yuan later we were at the lobby door again. It turns out you can actually see Shangxia Jiu Lu from our room; we just never knew what we were looking at before. In fact, it's just a few blocks and you can walk the whole distance if you want.

Gemma got her bath. In fact, we'd used the bath gel and mad a mountain of bubbles about 3 feet high! She loved it and was able to get nice and clean. We were able to stay up a little later, finally going to bed at about 10:00. Gemma had complained about the soft air mattress the night before so we had her on the floor last night, sleeping on top of a sheet. Now she wanted to go back to the air mattress. Both the kids were complaining about it being too cold, and it really is. They have only one setting on the White Swan air conditioners - cold. We had a portable heater brought in which made the room nice and toasty. Off to sleep...

The herbal medicine market


One of the corridors deeper into the market


At the playground in Shamian Park


Playing on the teeter totter


All giggles


Priceless moment!


Big brother spends time drawing with little sister


Perfectly written English for her sister's name and "mei mei" in Chinese characters


Catherine talking to Gemma about her bath
(or lack thereof)


The bus ride to the PSB
(Gemma told us that bus rides make her ill)


Sacked out once again. It's an Asian thing. All our exchange students sleep whenever they're in a vehicle.


Shangxia Jiu Lu


Moonrise over Guangzhou


Meeting Abbie and Chris in the Holt office


April and Gemma with Catherine


Such a luxurious bubble bath!


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